Joyce Kropewnicki

There were about 21 or 22 people on our bus during the trip to Europe.

Jeanie, Wanda, Francis, Teresa, Teresa (Stephanie) and Walter, Sylvia and Chester, Connie and Tony, Stan and Joyce, Dolores and Ted, Andy, Jean and Robert, Diane, Frank and Jane (Janina), and of course John Gora made the trip a delight.

All these folks were from Canada except Stan and I.

Prague – Ceske Krumlov – Ceske Budejovice – Vienna

Vienna and Apelton Winnery Austria

I never though that we could wear out an umbrella on a trip, but with gusty winds the frame such give way.

Bratisalva Solvaki – Budapest Hungary

Bratisalva was the rainy and windiest. Several stayed on the bus instead of braving the driving rains and winds. Budapest was really fun and interesting especially the large indoor market.

Zakopane and Krakow Poland

Doorways in Zakopane and Krakow

Doorways in Europe are intriguing. Some tattered from years of use and some inviting and upscale.

Here is a sampling of food. I usually ate it before I remembered to take a photo.

We stayed at many lovely hotels.

Prague

The first one in Prague was the best.

HOTEL CENTURY OLD TOWN ( 4 * )
Na Porici 7
Prague 1
11000 Prague, Czech Republic
Tel : (420) 2 180 0800
Fax : (420) 2 180 0801

The ceilings were at least 15 foot high. The rooms were spotless. Beds had those fluffy mattresses and soft down (or down like) comforters. WIFI (Internet service for laptops) worked great to connect in the room and was lightening fast to upload videos and photos.

We really like to have a cup of tea or coffee in the room. There was a boiler handy. There were fluffy soft towels and a wash cloth. The bathroom included a makeup mirror. There was a hair blower at a desk. Living the dream of luxury.

If you like to use a wash cloth be sure to take one with you. The first hotel was the one that had washcloths.

Ceske Budejovie Czech Republic

HOTEL GOMEL ( 4 * )
Prazska Trida 2306/14
37004 Ceske Budejovice, Czech Republic
Tel : (420) 389 102 111
Fax : (420) 389 102 333

After a long day riding on the bus and driving through beautiful country side. We stopped in the charming village of Ceska Krumlov and then on to Ceska Budajovice where were toured the Budweiser plant. Replete with good food and fresh beer we were ready for an evening’s rest.

Hotel Gomel is nothing to write home about. Rooms were typical European- – small size where you just don’t know where to lay out your luggage. No wash cloth, but that’s OK after all you are in Europe and the sights are spectacular. The mattresses are not quite as soft and puffy, but more like camping in a tent with a bed roll on the ground. Just missing the tent flap. Breakfasts with tasty dark breads and lovely meats, cheeses and fruits that get you started on your day. The view of the city from our room was delightful. The windows open so you can get some refreshing outside air.

Many in the group walked to the near-by square to attend Sunday Mass.

Vienna

AUSTRIA TREND HOTEL ANANAS ( 4 * )
Rechte Wienzeile 93-95/ Sonnenhofgasse 8-10
1050 Vienna, Austria
Tel : (43) 1 546 20
Fax : (43) 1 545 4242

The room was cozy and had a little desk under the window looking out to the charming courtyard of other buildings. Stan and I had tea and pastry over looking that view siting on coral leather chairs and a stool. There was a refrigerator, but no boiler for tea. I got used to hot water from the facet – kind of like warm tea. We drank the water from the facets in all the places, however still bought some bottled water to carry around during the day.

Budapest Hungary

HOTEL MERCURE BUDAPEST CITY CENTER ( 4* )
20 Vaci utca
1052 Budapest, Hungary
Tel : (36) 1 485 3100
Fax : (36) 1 485 3111

This is a very nice Hotel in the main part of the city. We walked about 2-3 blocks from where the bus dropped us off to this hotel. It was close to lovely restaurants and shopping along the streets. Most streets were for walking and shopping as traffic from cars were on other streets. No washcloth. Breakfast was a delight.

There was easy access to three computers by sitting on bar stools in the inviting bar area. You slide in your room key ( or any other credit card sized card) and you could use the internet for free. There was no way to upload photos from USB ports or the like as you only had access to the screen and key board. The font was set so large that you could read it across the room.

Rooms did not have free WIFI. This is where you were required to pay for the service in Euros (6 for two hours – 9 for 24 hours). We walked back to our hotel from the main covered market on afternoon. Very handy.

Zakopane Poland

HOTEL MERCURE KASPROWY ( 4 * )
ul. Szymaszkowa
34-500 Zakopane, Poland
Tel : (48) 18 202 4022
Fax : (48) 18 202 4024

This hotel was a delight. The view across the meadows to the snowed covered peaks of the Tetras mountains was a sight to remember. Stepping out onto the balcony even on a rainy day was refreshing.

The internet was easily connected by the red cable that was provided. Uploading videos was a sluggish process and I finally gave up on that. I uploaded a few pictures which seemed to go smoother. I don’t remember seeing any computers or a business center for the rest of the travelers.

The place was roomy at least enough for lay out the luggage.

Stan and I ate breakfast early around 7 one day and had time to visit the swimming pool before our departure for a tour. I’m glad we did. Always take your swim suit just in case although I think they rented them also. The pool was about 3 times the size of most indoor hotel pools. It was about 4-5 feet deep so plenty of space and depth to swim. The locker rooms were co-ed, however there was a changing room for privacy. The pool was included. There were also other amenities for a small charge. If you stay here, plan to use the pool.

Krakow

We stayed at the Novotel .

Hotel Novotel Kraków Centrum
www.accorhotels.com
Ul. T. Ko?ciuszki 5, Kraków – 12 299 29 00

The rooms are spacious, still no wash cloth. The breakfasts a delight as usual.

The hotel is within walking distance from the main square. We stayed at this same hotel last year and did walk from place to place. This time it was so rainy that we ordered golf carts with plastic to shelter us for a ride down to the square. On the way back, still too rainy so we rented a cab for 15 zoltys for 4 of us.

There are a variety of covers on the beds. Some beds are thick pads over hard boards or so it seems. Others are like clouds of soft down that you can just melt into after a long day.

Most places have internet services in their complimentary business centers. I bring along a notebook computer as I found in years past there were not always business centers, but generally some WIFI was available if you had your own computer. You can also unload your photos if you are using up lots of space on a flash card. The flip camera I use holds 60 minutes of video, which is quite a bit when more songs I record are about 2 – 5 minutes. But it is nice to know I have a place to save them through out the trip as this camera doesn’t have a place to use and extra flash card like cameras do. I always carry extra batteries, flash cards, battery chargers and plug adapters. Over the years you learn by traveling to just bring along extra stuff.

Some Rooms had free WIFI in the rooms or with use of connection cord as in Zakopane and Krakow. Budapest I was mostly internet less for uploading photos / videos as it cost 6 Euros for a couple of hours or 9 Euro (~$15) for 24 hours. After all I am on vacation and internet can wait. I was able to make a quick note on facebook about every day.

Local Currency is always a problem when you arrive in a country. US dollars and coins are worthless unless converted to local currency and coins. Even euros are not such friendly coins. People you might want to buy a postcard, cup of coffee or use of the WC (water closet – bathroom) usually about 50 cents worth want their coins or currency. Often I found the tours started in the mornings, guides get busy telling you about this and that about the community you are visiting and you are coinless with it is time to use the WC. Yikes.!. It if really hard to plan around this one traveling across borders with limit time for finding places to exchange money. The tours don’t really wait for you to get with the program and many hotels didn’t have facilities for exchange. There are ATMs around, hopefully you have the right card. We used one in Budapest and requested 19,000 forint, which I think is about $90. Vacation minds don’t always think in mathematical term. You can always buy some local currency at larger banks in US metro cities. be sure to get small denominations as those large bills look great, but are not so easy to bargain with in the markets. We didn’t use visa at all in the open market shops. Visa / Mastercard works for upscale shops. Stan bought a really nice belt. That shop took visa, but really wanted local currency so be obliged due to the cost of using credit card services for the shop.

September 5, 2010

In the afternoon after our long walk through Krakow we went to the Wieliczka Salt Mine. Stan and I were there last year and enjoyed it immensely. We debated if we should stay back so Stan could practice accordion that John Gora had on the bus. John had serenaded us on our bus ride through Krakow to the Salt Mine. Either choice would have been fun.

We did the tour of the mine. It is a challenge for aging knees as there were many staircases going down. The railings were sturdy and plodding along one step at a time seemed to work OK and didn’t hold up the group. One very long stair case I didn’t start counting steps until were about half way down. I counted 80 steps. Other staircases were 39 to 60 steps long. It was a staircase kind of day.

The most interesting chamber is the one with all the reliefs carved in the walls and giant chandeliers hanging in a magnificent hall. This is used for weddings and Mass. As I think about our visit and what we saw, it still amazes me that miners did all the sculptures instead of some slick laser tooled artisan that was paid to professionally complete these mighty works. However they were done, it is a must see experience.

Toward the end of the trip, I’m almost pictured out. Here are some photos I took the first time through the salt mine. We were wearing the same coats and shirts.

We had our farewell dinner across the street from the salt mine. My vegetarian meal was battered and fried goat cheese with a mound of boiled vegetables (broccoli, cauliflower and carrots). Sometimes I think when you say you want a vegetarian meal the restaurants are afraid you are starving and give you servings to feed a table of six. Stan and other meat eaters had tender roast duck with potatoes and red cabbage sauerkraut. Dessert I remember from last year when we went there was the same this year; a scoop of ice cream floating in a generous serving of fresh raspberry sauce. Pretty tangy and yummy.

We saw dancers getting ready to play for the evening, but they were getting ready for the next bunch of visitors. The restaurant had reconfigured the place to make booths that seated 6 with high backs so it would have been near impossible to enjoy any playing or folk dancing from our seats as you couldn’t see over the backs of the booths. Last year they had long tables with lower bench backs that worked well for entertaining crowds.

We all climbed back into the bus. John Gora entertained us with the accordion on the way back to the hotel. He sure can play and sing any song we requested and more. Made for a fun evening to top off the trip.

Next morning we all left to go back home. The long 9+ hour plane ride from Krakow to Chicago and another 2+ to Denver makes for a long day, but worth it in the end.

MON , SEPTEMBER 06 – KRAKOW – END OF TOUR ! Early morning transfer to Krakow airport for flight home .

Krakow Poland

Sunday September 5, 2010
The group crawled into the bus early in the morning with coats on and umbrellas in hand for a walking tour of Krakow, Poland.

We walked up a pretty steep incline on the Royal Wawel Hill to view the beauty of the outside of the buildings. The cathedral was having mass so no visitors unless you intended to stay for all of the mass. We did go quietly through a chambers in the lower area that had the sarcophagus of the recently deceased President and his wife who were killed in a plane crash earlier this year.

We walked down the incline overlooking a view of the city and turned back to see the magnificence of the spires and roofs of the many buildings that had been added on over the years. Of interest on the drizzly day were the rain spouts made of copper in the shape of gargoyles, dragons heads complete with crowns and ducks which were flush with water that slashed gently from two stories above.

At the bottom of the hill we walked several blocks back to the main square of the city. St. Mary’s church had the trumpeter playing out of the top windows to mark the hour. Mass was going on there also. We were on our own to explore the area for a few hours.

I hurried to buy a few things I saw along the way and then we stopped for a quick bowl of soup in a very reasonably priced cafe about two blocks from the main square. John Gora had spotted it on our walking journey. A bowl of mushroom and noodle soup with bread was about 3.6 zloty or about $1.80. Try to buy that in Colorado and you will be sadly out of luck.

One thing of great importance on walking / shopping tours is the finding and using a water closet (WC- Bathroom). The cafe had none of course at those prices. We walked through the updated cloth hall (mall) of shops with upscale Polish crafts and jewelery. No WC.

Finally we went through an archway across from the main square to one of the coffee / beer bars toward the back. It was a cozy, trendy place filled with young people enjoying the day called Figa-2 Kachwa I Wspolnicy Spotka Jawna 31-042 Krakow, Rynek Glowny 7/11. For 14 zloty (less then $5) we had the most relaxing cups of tea, yes with facilities in a very contemporary shop. The beer was served extra cold and the ice formed on the pipes attested to that.

SUN, SEPTEMBER 05 – KRAKOW Half-day tour of Krakow, including: The Royal Wawel Hill , the Royal Route and the Old Town area with the Old Town Market Square, the Cloth Hall, the Barbican, St Mary’s Church with 15th c Witt Stwosz Altar inside, Florianska Gate. Afternoon to Wieliczka Salt Mine and afterwards Farewell Dinner . Overnight in Krakow. ( B , D )

September 4, 2010 Saturday

On bus trip from Zakopane to Krakow.

Last evening in Zakopane Poland was a big hit. We walked up wide gravel steps to a mountain goralli restaurant. We knocked at the door and were met with a man with an axe in one hand. He lined up the men as they went in first followed by the women. As we entered the man smacked the hood over the open fire a good one and about knocked our socks off.

We set down at long picnic tables of white wood that was sandblasted to leave that interesting rough finish. The benches were shorter then a normal chair as they were on top of two big logs.

Three musicians played folk music and sang in those extra high voices. One guy played a 3 string instrument bigger than a cello and smaller than a contra bass. We recognized many of the tunes that were adapted to the goralli mountain style of music. John Gora and Diane treated us by dancing to one of these rapid paced dances. Feet moved at double time.

Soup was served in little buckets hanging from a wrought iron holder. My soup included chunks of hard-boiled egg, while Stan’s was more a beef vegetable like goulash. Dinner followed. It was tender chunks of lamb and ham on a skewer with some potatoes, sauteed mushrooms and a snappy pickle. I had potato pancakes with fried mushrooms. Dessert was on fire when it arrived at the dinner table. Ice cream topped with flaming whipped cream.

The waiter and waitresses kept us jumping. Many times they brought out platters of drink and food, then quickly dropped the platter on the rock floor scaring us with a start.

The waitress cut off a customer’s underwear using a machete to slice off the underwear on each side and then pulled them out from the back. The male waiter said in Polish- you better loosen your belt and pants or she’ll pull your n—- off. Then the guy had to through them up on the rafters which were already full of bras, ties and other underwear.

The next morning replete with food and laughter we settled into our bus seats for a leisurely nap on the way from Zakopane to Krakow. We stopped nearby to drink in the beautiful view of the snow covered peaks of the Tetra mountains and the lush green of the valleys. At a church (Bachledowka) off the normal tourist stopping point, we marveled at the beauty of the hand carved wood. The ceiling of the church was in the shape of a big cross with squares of carvings, symbols of the community. Men in goralli costumes wear these same symbols craved in metal on their belts.
The homes in the area are typical in style with the high peaked roofs most with lacy curtains in the windows and floors cascading from window boxes. The foundations of these homes are adorned with repeating patterns of river rock such as a large one next to two long skinny ones. It must have taken some time to line up the supply of rocks for these interesting designs.

We stopped in a small city at the local Saturday market. It was filled with all stalls of locals selling normal goods such as bags of candy, socks, shoes, coat, pots and pans, bushels bags of carrots, onions and pickle cucumbers. I won’t tell you what the vendor said when I comments on his nice bag of carrots. I don’t speak Polish, but gestures tell it all.

We all voted to skip the rafting trip as the river was overflowing from the recent rains. Riding on a wooden canoe on fast current isn’t as charming for us older folks as it was last year when the river was almost quiet with calm.

We went instead to Pope John Paul II’s church where he was born and became an alter boy in Wadowice. Stan and I went in, sat down and said a few prayers. Up front by the alter were two chair draped in white with a large bow softly tied in the back of each chair. Soon a wedding would take place in this beautiful setting.
We strolled around the square and enjoyed a scoop of strawberry ice cream for about 50 cents or 1.6 zloty. I like that they serve little small scoops at reasonable prices. This gives you a chance to try it out without loads of calories. Some times more is not better.

We arrived in Krakow at the Novotel Hotel. This is the place we stayed last year on our Poland trip. It started to rain again about the time we were leaving for our restaurant in the downtown square. We rode on golf carts in groups of 6 to the square. It is interesting to be on the back with cars rushing toward you. One time we passed a horse and carriage.

We had about an hour until our restaurant reservations. Not so much fun to stroll in the chilled raining air as it would be a balmy evening. We ducked into St Mary’s church. This place is amazing. It is about 500 years old and adorned with so many interesting designs that your mind feels it is inside a kaleidoscope. We visited that year so I have a slight remembrance of this place. Once a day the tall ornately carved and painted doors behind the alter are opened to more magnificent carvings adorned in silvers and gold. The doors were opened this evening. We slide into an empty seat and prayed for a few things happy to be out of the rain.

We walked under our umbrella toward the restaurant across the square and ducked into the shop next door. The back room had a book store. It is definitely more challenging looking through a book store when all the books are in Polish. The rest of the store had an interesting assortment of things in separate room ran by different people. There were earring displayed floor to ceiling on three foot diameter columns. Seriously – every inch had a set of earrings hanging from a hook. I pawed through the scarfs, but just didn’t see anything I wanted. Another room sold T-shirts.

Finally, time to dinner. We went down a couple flights of stairs next door to a cozy place. The exposed bricks on the wall and arched ceilings told of older days that this place might have been some secret hiding place with tunnels. Who knows. The food was great. Pieorgies – freshly made and delicious. Dessert was the Pope’s favorite – flakey crusts with cheese- whipped cream type thick filling.
Back to the hotel, this time in a cab as it was now raining harder. Four of us paid 15 zlotes or about $4.50. Well worth the quick ride back.

Here is music from the restaurant. It was so dark in there you can hardly see the musicians, however the music is worth a listen. Many familiar songs played Goralli Mountain man style. This is the region were many of these song initiated.

Itinerary – skipped the rafting trip due to high, rapid flowing river

SAT , SEPTEMBER 04 –ZAKOPANE KRAKOW After breakfast we leave Zakopane. Rafting on Dunajec River – Dunajec Gorge through the limestone rocks of Pieniny Mountains is one of the most beautiful views in Poland. Sitting comfortably on wooden rafts just admire the landscape and listen to the stories and jokes told by the navigating rafts men. Stop at a local restaurant after the rafting for those wishing to have a snack or light lunch . Afternoon arrival in Krakow. Free time before dinner in the Old Town. Overnight in Krakow . ( B , D )

Zakopane PolandZakopane is the most interesting place. Houses are distinct here with high pitched roofs to ward off the snow in the winter. This is a ski town with all the charm and vitality of the young people it attracts to the locals happy to bargain and sell their wares.

The main street have a delightful selection of local craft, smoked goat cheese pressed into tubes and other shapes with Polish designs. There are leather coats, scarfs and jewelry to delight the visitors.

At the end of the street is a funicular that goes up to the top of the hill. More crafts along with sausages smoking on a grill. A road goes on the ridge of the mountain. There are horse and carts that you can pay a few zlotys to take a ride.

Across the meadow you can see the cottages nestled in the forest. The snow covered tatra mountains peak out of the cloudy landscape. It is about 40 degrees this chilly day with intermittent rain.

After a brief look around we hurry back down the funicular to the warmth of the shops below.

Stan and I found a bank and exchanged the variety of currency (florins – Budapest, Euro – Vienna and Czech currency) to zloty so we could buy some lunch. We walked up the main street and peered at a few menus. A lady waiting on the steps of a cafe saw us looking and struck up a conversation. She noticed that we were probably Americans. We discovered after a few words and hearing her accent that she was from Australia. It is a small world after all.

We meandered up the street some more and found an interesting cafe that we had heard gorali mountain music playing the year before. We picked a table made of logs and sat down on a well worn sheep’s skin draped on the seat. I ordered potato and cheese pierogies which were some the best I have eaten in Poland. Stan had noodle soup. Watching the people pass made the afternoon a delight.

We stopped by a bakery on that way back down the hill and bought a couple of Pushks (Polish name for jam stuffed Bismark type donuts).

Here is some interesting goralli Mountain Man folk music played at a restaurant

Itinerary Rainy and chilly

FRI, SEPTEMBER 03 – ZAKOPANE Breakfast at the hotel. Half-day tour of Zakopane, including: Funicular ride to Gubalowka Hill gives a beautiful view over Polish and Czech Tatras, Tatra Museum, a walk along Krupowki Street. Time for shopping – friendly street vendors will offer local goods (lamb-wool sweaters, walking sticks, wooden figures). Dinner at a bonfire with accompaniment of a folklore band. Overnight in Zakopane ( B, D )